August 14, 2009 · 31 comments

Buzy Bees

in Bread,Produce,Vegetarian

Honey is a pale yellow liquid, sweet, viscid and edible, collected and processed by bees from the nectar of flowers. The word honey comes from the Arabic hon which became in old English honig degenerating gradually to honey. The German word is still honeg.

Honey has been found in the tombs of ancient Egypt, where a jar of still edible honey was discovered in the Tomb of Queen Tyi’s parents. It was thought to be 3300 years old. Evidence has been found of honey being used by the Egyptian, soaked on bandages to form a ‘plaster cast’ for broken bones.

Considered by the Ancient Greeks to be sacred, and by the Hindus as a miracle food. Honey has been used as a sweetener in our diet long before the discovery of sugar. When the ancient Phoenician traders came to Britain for lead and tin they found the population consuming great quantities of honey and called Britain the Isles of Honey.

Honey is also hygroscopic, antibacterial, and is antiseptic. It is claimed to have medical and cosmetic properties, but beyond dispute is the unique and special flavour it adds to cooking.

Honey is of course produced by bees, and we must act to save our honey bees. A third of UK bee colonies have been lost over the last two years. There is strong evidence that neonicotinoids – a class of pesticide first used in agriculture in the mid 1990s at exactly the time when mass bee disappearances started occurring – are involved in the deaths. The evidence against these chemicals is strong enough that they have been banned or suspended in France, Germany, Italy and Slovenia – but unfortunately not yet in the UK.

Neonicotinoids work as an insecticide by blocking specific neural pathways in the central nervous systems. The chemicals impair communication, homing and foraging ability, flight activity, ability to discriminate by smell, learning, and immune systems – all of which have an impact on bees ability to survive.

It seems bees genetic make up makes them particularly vulnerable to neonicotinoids. Recent mapping of the bee genome has revealed that bees capacity to detoxify chemicals is much lower than other insects. Instead bees have two strategies to protect themselves. On the first day of foraging in a new area, scout bees are sent out first to taste the nectar and pollens – if any are adversely affected they will be expelled from the hive immediately, and the colony will avoid the area. In addition to this, once foraging begins, nurse bees in the hive clean foragers each time they return. These strategies protect the colony from mass exposure to lethal doses of chemicals, but they do leave honey bees particularly susceptible to sub-lethal exposures to any contaminants they encounter.

The other really important factor is the complex behaviour of honeybee colonies. For example, the 10,000 forager bees in a typical hive need to co-ordinate their quest for nectar – and they do this through the famed ‘waggle dance’, which communicates the flight direction and distance to sources of nectar. The complexity and precision of these dances is breathtaking, and success relies on the integrity of a nervous system where each synapse is crucial. It is no surprise then that honey bees have been shown to have a higher number of neurological receptors than other insects.

Honey bees live and work as a colony, not as individuals; what seems to be happening is that the cumulative impact of small doses of nenoicotinoids on thousands of bees over time is affecting individual bee’s ability to work and communicate effectively as part of a colony. Because lots of bees in each colony are behaving sub-optimally this can lead to the sudden, and devastating, outcomes that we’ve been witnessing in recent years. Please do take the time to click here and sign up to help our bees.

So after the brief history of honey bees and their golden nectar I bet you’re wondering what this has to do with a blog entry categorised as “bread”, well it’s quite simple really – I made a bread incorporating some gorgeous honey. It was a pumpkin seed and Ivy Honey Malted Bread.

The ivy honey came from The Big Blue Sky shop in Norfolk, which you can read about here in detail (please do take the time to, the store is glorious), and as such was guaranteed to be a local product. It was produced by Orchid Apiaries who offer from resident apiaries traditional Norfolk honey, a blend of nectars gathered by the bees through the season. I bought the ivy honey purely out of curiosity, I had no idea what the flavour would be like at all; it turns out to be rather earthy and tinged with a note of coffee, yet with a medicinal overtone but not at all in a bad way. I wish I’d bought more than one jar, it really is a good job I’m going back to Norfolk soon :) The only downside to ivy honey is that it crystallises very quickly and hence doesn’t look so pretty sitting on the pantry shelf but that has no effect on the flavour at all, it is purely cosmetic.

I used malthouse flour from Shipton Mill to provide the backbone of the bread dough; it is one of my favourite and most used flours right now. It encompasses white wheat flour which is blended with three malts – whole crisp golden malted wheat flakes provide a delicious texture; a malted barley gives a soft rich malty flavour; and the dark malted rye gives a nutty flavour and relatively dark colour. A tablespoon of the ivy honey was added to the dough also which helped enhance the sweet malty flavour of the bread.

The risen dough was brushed with an ivy honey and water solution before gently being rolled in pumpkin seeds and baked. Pumpkin seeds are good sources of iron and zinc and of omega-3 fatty acids making them a great addition to a healthy loaf.

Having read Bread: River Cottage Handbook No. 3 (River Cottage Handbook 3) by Daniel Stevens I decided to try giving the loaf a second rise, something I had never thought to try out before, Daniel says this will help improve the texture and flavour of the finished bread and that it can be repeated up to four times. He is right, the texture and flavour were better, slightly closer in crumb and definitely more flavoursome in a wholesome yeasty kind of way; next time I will go for three rises :)

Another great idea is to spritz the oven with water when you put the dough in as it helps recreate a traditional bakers steam oven, I use a cheep plant mister I picked up from a local garden centre, nothing more fancy is required.

With a lovely soft and tender crumb the bread made for excellent sandwiches and great toast (ever so sweet then) but don’t do what I did and put the bread in the toaster, believe me trying to get out stuck pumpkin seeds is no fun at all, use the grill instead.

I only used half the dough for covering in pumpkin seeds and honey wash, the other half I formed into a batard which I dusted with rye flour and slashed before baking. Rye flour gives a lovely grey dusty colour to the bread once it has baked which contrasts well against the cooked bread. The batard was of the same flavour as the loaf but had a chewier crust due to it’s shape and the slashing of it. The batard was best simply sliced and served with ultra fresh creamy butter.

I am of course entering this bread to YeastSpotting which this coming week will be hosted by Nick of Macheesmo.

The Recipe:

  • 1kg malthouse flour
  • 10g powdered dried yeast
  • 20g fine salt
  • 600ml warm water
  • 1 tablespoon sunflower oil
  • 1 tablespoon ivy honey
  • 2 handfuls of rye, for coating
  • 1 teaspoon ivy honey mixed with 1 tablespoon boiling water for the honey wash
  • 50g pumpkin seeds for coating
  1. First, mix the dough. Combine the flour, yeast and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the liquid, and with one hand, mix to a rough dough. Add the oil and honey and mix it all together. Adjust the consistency if you need to with a little more flour or water to make a soft, kneadable, sticky dough. Turn the dough out on to a work surface and clean your hands. Knead the dough until it is as smooth and satiny as you can make it – this will take about 10 minutes. 
  2. Shape the kneaded dough into a round. Then oil or flour the surface and put the dough into the wiped-out mixing bowl. 
  3. Put the bowl in a bin liner and leave to ferment and rise until doubled in size. This could be anywhere between 45 min and 1½ hours – or longer still, if the dough is cold. 
  4. Deflate the dough by tipping it on to the work surface and pressing all over with your fingertips. Then form it into a round. If you like, leave to rise again up to four times. This will improve the texture and flavour. 
  5. Now switch the oven to 250C (or the equivalent) and put your baking tray in position. Get your water spray bottle ready if you have one, your serrated knife if using, and an oven cloth. Clear the area around the oven. 
  6. Divide the dough into as many pieces as you wish (I suggest two large or three small loaves, or a dozen rolls). Shape these into rounds and leave them to rest, covered, for 10-15 min. 
  7. Transfer to well-floured wooden boards and lay a plastic bag over the whole batch to stop it drying out. Leave to prove, checking often by giving gentle squeezes, until the loaves have almost doubled in size. 
  8. Brush with the honey syrup and roll in pumpkin seeds (or scatter with rye flour). Transfer the loaves for baking to the hot tray (removed from the oven). Slash the tops, if you wish, and before you bake the bread, spray it all over with water. Put the tray in the oven, spritz some water into the oven and close the door as quickly as you can. Turn the heat down after about 10 minutes to: 200C if the crust still looks very pale; 180C if it is noticeably browning; 170C if it seems to be browning quickly. Bake until the loaves are well browned and crusty, and feel hollow when you tap them: in total, 10-20 min for rolls; 30-40 min for small loaves; 40-50 min for large loaves. If in doubt, bake for a few minutes longer. Leave to cool on a wire rack

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{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }

Julia @ Mélanger August 14, 2009 at 22:57

That bread looks amazing. I’ve never tried anything like it before. Beautiful!

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Coby August 15, 2009 at 02:54

I love honey, and am always curious about unusual flavour options, I’ve never heard of ivy honey before. The bread looks like perfection! Thanks for the tip on the toaster;)

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Gloria August 15, 2009 at 14:52

George, Really love this post. I love Honey and many times I eat my morning toasts with honey.
The last time hubby brings me an organic honey wonderful and the flavor and the color,love it.
The bread look awesome and I love your new look at blog, nice, xxxGloria

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polly peirce August 16, 2009 at 16:53

Fascinating article George, thank you. That bread looks good enough to eat…

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ziabaki August 17, 2009 at 03:58

I’m so excited to find you! What a beautiful blog and great writing! I write a food column for our local newspaper and I have been doing a series this summer on our local farmers. One of the farmers I am doing next is a bee keeper. Your post is very informative and gets my juices flowing for the interview and subsequent article. I put you on my blog roll. Thank!

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snowy August 17, 2009 at 16:59

What a great post George. I love honey. The bread looks so good; would love to try it but not sure where I could get the malthouse flour here.

snowy x

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Miss High Heels August 18, 2009 at 06:27

Interesting facts on honey. The bread looks great!

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Laura @ Hungry and Frozen August 18, 2009 at 08:20

Honey really is special stuff. Both these bread recipes look gorgeous, I love using honey in the dough – gives such a lovely flavour.

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Mimi August 21, 2009 at 16:26

Great article. I’ve read articles published here in the U.S. that say we don’t really know what the cause of colony collapse is but that bees in hives where they are pollinating organic farms are less affected by these problems. The pesticides you mentioned make sense as being a cause.

You baked some really lovely bread. I especially love how the pumpkin loaf turned out.

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Nancy (n.o.e.) August 21, 2009 at 16:51

This is a gorgeous loaf! Very intriguing ingredients; I’d no doubt need to sub, but it’s going on my list!

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Stefanie August 21, 2009 at 19:28

That looks so delicious! I am just thinking how to do this malted flour by my own, because I never saw this type of flour here in germany!

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Penny August 22, 2009 at 18:32

Interesting information about honey…and what a wonderful bread. Now I will be searching for ivy honey:)

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Mark March 22, 2010 at 18:09

Excellent. Really informative article and what a gorgeous bread.

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Ros March 28, 2010 at 09:00

What beautiful bread. I am going to have to find myself some of that ivy honey.

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George@CulinaryTravels March 28, 2010 at 18:03

Thank you Ros. This honey isn’t essential for the bread, any honey can be substituted with no problem, but it is a very good honey.

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Jules May 10, 2010 at 20:34

Ooh what a lovely combination of flavours. Looks perfect.

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Janine June 19, 2010 at 01:41

Lovely breads. Such an informative post too.

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George@CulinaryTravels June 23, 2010 at 11:32

Thank you, glad you liked it.

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Kitchen Goddess August 15, 2009 at 10:02

I’d never seen ivy honey before either Coby, I was so curious about it. I’ve actually gone so far as to contact the shop and ask them to save some for me as I like it so much. Thanks for the lovely comment about the bread and you’re very welcome re the toaster, I wouldn’t want to have people ‘shouting’ “You’ve ruined my toaster” lol :)

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Kitchen Goddess August 15, 2009 at 10:03

Thank you Julia :) I’d highly recommend the bread, if you try it do let me know what you think of it please.

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Kitchen Goddess August 15, 2009 at 16:15

Thank you Gloria :) I never thought to spread this bread with honey … how lovely would that of been, ooh yum! Thanks for the idea and the lovely comment.

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Kitchen Goddess August 17, 2009 at 07:35

Ziabaki thank you :) I’m glad I could inspire you. How lovely to be doing interviews with farmers I bet it was greatly interesting. Where is your blog?

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Kitchen Goddess August 17, 2009 at 07:38

Hi Polly. Thank you for the lovely comment :)

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Kitchen Goddess August 17, 2009 at 17:25

Hi Snowy, thanks for the comment :) If you can’t get malthouse flour a good alternative would be granary flour with a handful of additional seeds/flakes of your choice. Hope that helps

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Kitchen Goddess August 18, 2009 at 10:58

Miss High Heels :) Glad you liked the post and thanks for stopping by.

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Kitchen Goddess August 18, 2009 at 11:00

Laura you’re right honey is really special. Glad you like the breads.

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Kitchen Goddess August 21, 2009 at 16:57

Hi Mimi :) Thank you for your comment. I’m glad you like the look of the bread, the pumpkin seeds really added something special. We really need to learn more about the effects of these chemicals on the bees.

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Kitchen Goddess August 21, 2009 at 16:59

Hi Nancy thanks for stopping by my blog and leaving a comment :) So long as you keep the quantities the same you can use any wholemeal flour and seed combination you like (i.e. the flour and seeds should make up the same volume as the flour I specify).

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Kitchen Goddess August 21, 2009 at 19:51

Hi Stefanie :) Thank you for your lovely comment. If you combine wholemeal flour with your choice of seeds you could recreate something similar, although it won’t have exactly the same flavour.

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Kitchen Goddess August 22, 2009 at 20:32

Thank you Penny. Good luck on your hunt for ivy honey. If I come across any online sources I’ll add the link here :)

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