Getting Smokey

Whether you know it as mutabbal, moutabal, caviar d’aubergines or baba ganoush, the smoke-scented aubergine puree is a classic.

Baba ganoush is a Lebanese dish of aubergine, mashed and mixed with virgin olive oil and various seasonings. I suppose you could say it’s the lesser known cousin of hummus, only instead of chickpeas you have aubergine.

Good baba ganoush is reliant on the smokey, charred flavour of the aubergines, although I like to help it along with a little smoked salt too. Too many versions of this recipe fail to recognize the importance of scorching the aubergines over a grill or hot flame. This is essential to give the smoky quality that lends such a distinctive note to the dish.

Feel free to drizzle with some pomegranate molasses or pomegranate seeds – this works particularly well with lamb – if you feel like it, but, please don’t go too mad with the flavourings; this is an opportunity for the aubergines earthiness to shine.

Baba Ganoush

• 3 medium-sized aubergines
• 130g tahini
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked salt (or sea salt)
• 3 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lemon juice
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• A good handful of fresh parsley or coriander leaves plus extra parsley or coriander leaves to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 190C or the equivalent.
2. Prick each aubergine a few times, then char the outside of the auberginess by placing them directly on the flame of a gas burner and as the skin chars, turn them until the auberginess are uniformly-charred on the outside.
3. Place the aubergine on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until they’re completely soft; you should be able to easily poke a paring knife into them and meet no resistance.
4. Remove from oven and let cool.
5. Split the aubergine and scrape out the pulp.
6. Puree the pulp in a blender or food processor with the other ingredients until smooth.
7. Taste, and season with additional salt and lemon juice, if necessary.
8. Chill for a few hours before scattering with the herbs and drizzling with olive oil.
9. Serve with flatbread, pitta or crackers.

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