October 20, 2009 · 22 comments

Damn Good Food

in Book Reviews

  • Damn Good Food: 157 Recipes from Hell’s Kitchen by Mitch Omer (founder of the original Hell’s Kitchen Restaurants) and Ann Bauer (previous food editor at Minnesota Monthly) is a roller coaster of a book, from recounting Omer’s darker days of addiction and suffering from bipolar disorder to sweet childhood memories inter-spaced with belly rumble inducing recipes of the most exciting kind, all written in a style that makes you want need to keep turning the pages. Add to this some amazing photography of both the food and Omer’s famous Hell’s Kitchen restaurants with decor aptly dubbed “The nightmare side of Sesame Street” by Bauer and you have a book you will truly not want to put down, let alone, let out of your sight.
  • In places this book seems to go for the shock factor as much as the inducing mouth-watering moments factor. In fact, depending on how tender your sensibilities, there may even be moments where you wish the authors had held back, from various disclosures about relationships, or moments when Omer gets unnecessarily, perhaps, profane. It could be argued rather successfully though that this book wouldn’t be the ‘joy’ it is without that very notion of shock. Omer has had a life full of unconventional and shocking moments, this book relies on the truth being told, without it we would simply have another same old chefs memoir full of fuzzy feel good moments — this is not the movies, this is real life and the dark side of real life at that told against a backdrop of good honest food. It is very clear that food played a large part in Omer’s ‘recovery’ process, maybe too big a part as he ended up having to have a gastric bypass. 
  • Damn Good Food: 157 Recipes from Hell’s Kitchen is beautifully presented, mostly in black and white but dotted with bright, full colour photographs which help bring warmth and dare I say it, even more character (as if Mitch didn’t already bring enough, just by talking about himself). The book is printed on premium quality paper, making it joyous to handle. The text is set out so that there’s plenty of white space around it, and the font is a good size, making the recipes and text paragraphs very easy to read. The excellent publication quality doesn’t stop there, the photography is both of excellent quality and inspiring, particularly the inner kitchen shots of the chefs at work.
  • Omer really does allow his soul to be bared, nothing is held back: not his opinions, not his personal failures and triumphs and most certainly not his recipes. Recipes range from the basic such as French Toast and Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato sandwiches to awe inspiring dishes such as Bison Sausage Bread and Chocolate Bunnies (you’ll have to read the book to learn more), covering every concept of American comfort food imaginable —macaroni and cheese, corned beef hash; of course the famous Mahnomin Porridge is included too, but how could it not be?
  • Most of the recipes have side notes as to how Mitch came up with the idea or for variations on the theme; for example next to the Mahnomin Porridge recipe is a text box that reads “I first got the idea for this recipe more than twenty years ago while reading transcripts of journals kept by fur traders travelling across Canada in the nineteenth century. There was a meal served by Cree Indians that consisted of wild rice with nuts and berries and sweetened with maple syrup. But I decided it needed more fat, so I added heavy cream.” These anecdotes really help to bring life and spirit to these recipes, many of which while a mainstay of American food culture, are unfamiliar to the UK market. 
  • According to the book “Mitch was encouraged to hold some recipes back — ”God knows I tried,” says [his wife and business partner] Cyn but he chose not to do so; what you the reader have in this book is a ‘manual’ that includes every single ingredient, secret, and cooking tip from the inner sanctum of Hell’s Kitchen. With Hell’s Kitchen you really do have all the information you’d require to cook a Mitch styled restaurant dish, So it’s your choice. Prepare yourself for the crowds and the queues, fight for a table, and have a meal. Yes, I know — all very nice, but… or, spend that same money on the book, and be able to recreate over a hundred of their very best recipes in the comfort of your own home? I know which I’d be choosing.
  • With thanks to Minnesota Historical Society Press/Borealis Books for the review copy.
  • Hardcover: 256 pages
  • Publisher: Minnesota Historical Society Press,U.S.; 1 edition (1 November 2009)
  • Language English
  • ISBN-10: 0873517245
  • ISBN-13: 978-0873517249

EDIT: If anyone of you who buy the book have any queries about the recipes or ingredient substitutions please leave me a comment and I will pass them on to the publisher, who has very kindly said she will then pass them on to Mitch and I will get back to you asap with an answer.

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{ 21 comments… read them below or add one }

kelly-jane October 20, 2009 at 15:39

Great review George, well done :)

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mathildescuisine October 20, 2009 at 16:21

Looks like a very interesting cookbook to add to my collection!

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Kitchen Goddess October 20, 2009 at 16:28

Thank you for visiting my blog Mathilde. This is certainly a very interesting book indeed, a great one to own.

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Francesca October 20, 2009 at 17:02

That certainly sounds like an unusual cookbook. You have me intrigued now George, I had thought it was only recipes.

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Gail Woodgate October 20, 2009 at 20:19

George, I thought the same as Francesca that it was a recipe book and I agree with you having a life story that has food and recipes intertwined adds to the readers overall experience.

Great review, I hope there are more book reviews done by you too!

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Georges Dad October 21, 2009 at 08:43

You’re a star!!

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daisygray October 21, 2009 at 10:45

doing almost anything for the first time is nearly always scary – so well done, George, for a beautifully written/constructed review and look forward to many more.

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Lili October 21, 2009 at 11:40

Fantastic review, very well written. It makes me want to own this book!

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Rosa October 21, 2009 at 18:17

A cool place and interesting book!

Cheers,

Rosa

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George@CulinaryTravels October 21, 2009 at 18:53

Cheers Rosa :) I’d love to go to that restaurant, looks a very cool place indeed.

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Hélène October 22, 2009 at 00:58

You did a fantastic review. Sounds like a great book.

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Rhyleysgranny October 22, 2009 at 16:53

Great job George. Well done you x

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George@CulinaryTravels October 22, 2009 at 17:26

Thank you very much Brenda :)

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Cynthia Gerdes December 21, 2009 at 02:25

Hi there this is Cyn, chef Mitch Omer’s wife and business partner. Thank you so very much for actually READING the book and “getting” that it’s a very true story which was best told in brutally honest fashion. I personally watched Mitch transform from a manic, alcohol-abusing, overspending and compulsive person into a beautiful man with balance in his life (finally). The book has been written up in tons of places including the New York Times, but the best reviews have been by those who read it and got that this isn’t a book meant to shock; it’s simply a story of a good man hurling through most of his life undiagnosed, breaking limbs, setting fires and getting fired until properly diagnosed.
Now for anyone who actually buys the book, make SURE to try the Lemon Ricotta Hotcakes. Easy to make, sublime and swoon-worthy, i do promise you that.
Thanks again for taking care to write such a thoughtful review.
cyn

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George@CulinaryTravels October 20, 2009 at 15:48

Thank you Kelly. It was a great experience and very enjoyable. I hope there are plenty more reviews to come :)

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Kitchen Goddess October 20, 2009 at 19:07

No not just a collection of recipes Francesca, more a collection of recipes to compliment a life story.

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Kitchen Goddess October 21, 2009 at 08:45

Thank you Gail :)

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George@CulinaryTravels October 21, 2009 at 08:46

Thank you (blushes) :)

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George@CulinaryTravels October 21, 2009 at 12:50

Thanks Daisy. This wasn’t so much scary as hugely enjoyable, I just wanted to make sure I did the book justice.

I hope there will be many more reviews for you to read :)

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George@CulinaryTravels October 21, 2009 at 12:50

Lili thank you, if I’ve inspired you to buy the book I think I’ve done my job well enough ;)

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George@CulinaryTravels October 22, 2009 at 08:58

Thank you Helene :)

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